Visiting Sites Along Utah’s Trail of the Ancients – Part I (Monument Valley, Valley of the Gods, Goosenecks State Park, Bluff Fort Historic Community)

Sorry for my rant in my May 3 blog.  I’ve “regrouped”, and want to tell you about the fantastic time we had in the 2 weeks leading up to our work-camping debacle.




It was raining when we left Palo Duro on April 21, but we soon were out of the storm as we traveled to our next adventure in Southeast Utah.  We stopped at Russell’s Travel Center on Historic Route 66 in Glen Rio, New Mexico for fuel, and we were blown away.  Not only does this travel center have a great convenience store, it has wonderful additions like a chapel and a nostalgic 50s style diner.  But best of all, it has a museum filled with classic cars, motorcycles, and all sorts of collectibles, including Route 66 memorabilia!   What a trip down Memory Lane--most fun I’ve ever had at a fueling station!

  

Shhh! I snuck a ride with one of my friends in this '58 Chevy Deluxe!

We spent the night at Sandia Casino in Albuquerque, which graciously offers complimentary overnight parking (up to two nights) for its RVing guests.  Registration is required with the security guard at the gate to access the huge lot reserved for RVs.  While Mom and Dad did some boogieing to the Cupid Shuffle and Electric Slide, I signed up for my Player’s Card, earning myself $10 free play.  I found a 1 cent Harley Davidson machine and inserted a $10 bill (‘cause you can’t get the free play without putting in your own money for an initial bet).  I thought I’d get to play for a long time since it was only a penny slot.   But I soon learned there were so many pay lines, it cost me $.90 each spin!  Needless to say, I blew my cheese money in a flash.  I’m getting like my Aunt Laurie and spending too much time with games of chance.  I may need to call 1-800-GAM-PROB!

The next morning we traveled along NM 550, enjoying gorgeous views of the Zia and Jemex pueblos.  We caught glimpses of Colorado’s snow-capped Mt. Sneffels, the highest summit of the Rockies, towering above us at a 14,000+ elevation.

It was a lovely, relaxing drive.  Before I knew it, we were at our boondocking site, a secluded BLM gem that we learned of from friends (THANKS JIM AND BRENDA!).  It overlooks the San Juan River, which delineates public lands and Navajo tribal lands.  When you look through binoculars across the river, you can see a multi-building cliff dwelling in the rock formation!  Known as the Great Bluff House, it is said to date back to 650 A.D.

San Juan River, one side BLM lands, other side Navajo lands

The Great Bluff House

We were sitting outside chilling and grilling while waiting for sunset, when a car pulls up alongside our rig.  A young woman, traveling alone, has decided apparently that she is spending the night—right next to us!  Now I know these are public lands and others have as much right to be there as I do, but what is the point of being in a remote area if you have someone so close by, they can hear you snore!   The aggravating part was that there was not another sole on these BLM lands; she could have utilized a half dozen other spots, particularly since she had no size limitations.  To top it off, though she did not engage with us, she proceeded to stand right in front of our rig to take her sunset pictures.  So much for my view!  Sorry, I’m rambling and ranting again (Can you tell I am in a one-stuffed-rat family.  Yup, I suffer only rat syndrome, and I’m not accustomed to sharing.)  I put on my big boy pants and didn’t let her spoil my serenity (and fortunately, she only stayed one night.)

Dad used his Photoshop magic, so no one is standing in this picture!

Rise and shine!  It’s was a glorious new day and we had big plans to traverse numerous stops along the Trail of the Ancients.  There are loads of open range in these parts. We saw cows and horses, including a foal, eating at the side of the road.

We stopped at Mexican Hat, where some guys with more balls than brains were hanging from the rim of the sombrero rock formation.

We took the iconic photo of Monument Valley from Highway 163 and stopped at the Welcome Center.  We learned that for $20, you can travel another 3 miles along paved road onto Navajo lands.  From that point, it is a 13-mile drive along an unimproved road to get you closer to the rock formations which are within the tribal park.  Hey, I’ll fork over some of my cheese money for that!  But unfortunately, they prohibit motorcycles (strike 1), ATVs (strike 2) and RVs (we were told that Big Boomer, our tow vehicle, would fall under this category due to its size).  Strike 3, we are out of luck!

I began to sulk, but Dad appeased me saying we would go to Valley of the Gods next.  We walked the East Entrance road about ½ mile to check out its condition before venturing down and determined it was doable.  We crossed the River bed, which had some residual puddles but was fairly solid ground.  We passed a group of cows having a morning bath.  They seemed mesmerized, staring at us as we passed.  I thought they were reacting to me waving to them from the back window.  I soon realized I was not the object of their attention—it was the chrome bull balls hanging from the back of Big Boomer!

As I marvel at the varying shapes and sizes of the rock formations, I am transported to another place and time.  I think of how these lands looked millennia ago, before the winds, rains, and ice transformed the topography.  I think of the ancient peoples who called these lands home, and I understand how the Navajo view these places as sacred, places where the power of the spirits reside.

7 Sailors Formation

The fallen rocks are massive--even bigger than than Boomer!

The roadway got a bit dicey with some hairpin turns and ledges as we got closer to the West Entrance.  But Dad navigated them slowly, unlike some of the other tourists.  One was in such a hurry, he came up over a hill so fast, he didn’t even see us in the upcoming hairpin turn, and then rather than slow down, tried to pass us on the right!

Truthfully Valley of the Gods has far more rock formations that Monument Valley, and it doesn’t cost anything!

Also on our agenda was Goosenecks State Park.  It costs $5 per vehicle for day use, $15 for overnight camping (and it has plenty of amply-sized spots should we have needed to implement Plan B for boondocking.)  Goosenecks of the San Juan River, like Horseshoe Bend of the Colorado River in Lake Powell National Recreation Area, is a fine example of a river meander. We hiked along the rim to The Point, learned about the geology, and returned to Big Boomer to enjoy a picnic lunch.

Our last stop for the day was Bluff Fort.  Just by its name, I thought this was a fortification of the Calvary, but boy, was I entirely off base!  We arrived after 5 p.m., thinking they would already be closed and we would just take pictures from the outside.  But this replica of an historic Mormon Village site, run solely by friendly, knowledgeable volunteers and where no cheese money is required for entry, remains open to 6 p.m.    It is a really great place for kids!  A “talking wall” engages you, followed by a short film that depicts an intriguing tale of perseverance, dedication, devotion, and divine intervention.  This rat’s synopsis:  in 1878, Latter Day Saints Church Leaders called upon these faithful to settle the area and befriend the native American Indians.  As they journeyed, they reached 40 Mile Spring and evaluated all routes to access the other side of the Colorado River, but none were feasible for horses, wagons, women, or children.  They found “a hole in the rock” near Escalante, with 500 foot high cliffs, which they were required to blast, sand, pick, even make foot holds for horses, in order to continue their trail to Bluff.  The journey took 6 months, during which two babies were born.  Miraculously, no lives were lost.  The Fort contains replicas of the village homes, which are furnished with family heirlooms by the descendants of the settlers.  There is even one of the original wagons used on the “hole in the rock” journey!  We walked around the town of Bluff, watching the sun set, inspired by the faith and fortitude of these pioneers.

I did a little bit of star gazing that night before my eyes got weary and I nodded off.  I stirred as Mom and Dad tucked me in for the night, realizing how blessed I am to experience this full-time RV lifestyle.

We would like to thank some amazing organizations for all they do for the RVing community:



Escapees RV Club





Xscapers





RVillage




RV Dreams

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