Part II - Touring North Central Idaho

 Well, I promised to tell you about the rest of the fun places we visited while volunteering at Dworshak Dam in North Central Idaho.  So, without further ado, here's Part II of my chronicles!

Coeur d’Alene.  Though only 130 miles from Dworshak Dam, it took about 3 hours to get there on our first visit.  It was a dismal day with downpouring rain, so Big Boomer, our medium-duty truck, couldn’t do top speed on the winding hills of US-95 with its double-digit grades.  We stretched our legs at Mineral Mountain Rest Area by taking a short stroll along their nature walk.  We arrived at Coeur d’Alene, which offers an abundance of recreational activities, including bicycling, boating, and hiking.  I wanted to do a boat ride or rent jet skis (especially after our disappointment in learning that Dworshak Reservoir has none of these commercial ventures).  But because of the weather, my parents opted instead for us to hike Tubbs Hill.  It is a nice hike, but a bit anti-climatic for me since trees now block most of the view of Lake Coeur d’Alene.   But I was thrilled when one of the paths led us to McEuen Park along the waterfront, home to Mudgy the Moose and Millie the Mouse, beloved characters in a children’s book written by Susan Hagen Nipp.  Like me and my pal, Nezumi (who resides in my shirt pocket), Mudgy and Millie are always together, though Mudgy sometimes doesn’t realize it since Millie “hides”.  Throughout the park are 5 life-size sculptures of M&M (as I have taken to calling them), and Nezumi and I had great fun in hunting them down!  All that hiking gave me a hankering for some chow.  We traversed down Sherman Avenue to check out our restaurant options, which were mostly small cafes and coffee houses.  But Dad’s Happy Cow app pointed us to Olympians.  Located just a block off the main drag, Olympians has excellent service and delectable Greek fare with vegetarian/vegan and carnivore options to satisfy the palettes of both my parents and me.  We continued to walk, including through some residential areas, to get a good flavor for the City.

 

Some stunning pastoral views

The Marina

An obstructed view from Tubbs Hill of the Lake

An unobstructed view from Tubbs Hill of the Lake

McEuen Park

This statue is how I envision my parents in a few decades

Wouldn't be Idaho without a lumberjack around!

Mudgy, Millie, Nezumi and me (can you spot Millie and Nezumi?)

Gold Rush Historic Byway/Route 11.  We visited several old mining towns including Pierce, where the first gold in Idaho was found.   Oro Fine City, which means “fine gold”, flourished with 500 inhabitants during its peak.  But the city was abandoned after the gold rush and eventually burned in 1867.  We visited Weippe, where the Nez Perce first encountered the starving members of the Lewis and Clark Expedition.

  

Mary Minerva McCroskey State Park.  Located along a ridge line near Desmet, about an hour South of Coeur d’Alene, this place is a hidden gem.  It offers 30 miles of multi-use trails and spectacular views along Skyline Drive among 5,000+ acres of ponderosa pines, Douglas firs, cedars, and assorted other timbers.  Virgil Talmage McCroskey donated these lands to the State of Idaho in memory of his mother.  Ironically, Idaho was not very receptive of this gift.  In fact, the legislature made some ridiculous stipulations before they would take ownership of the land, namely that Virgil had to provide $500 annually to the State for 15 years AND maintain the acreage himself during that time.  Say what!  Idaho was counting on this being an impossible task to accomplish, but they underestimated Virgil!  He met their requirements and the State accepted the gift in 1970, just a few months prior to Virgil passing away at the ripe old age of 93.  Virgil is a true testament to the adages, “where there is a will, there is a way” and “if you put your mind to it, nothing is impossible.”  We enjoyed a packed lunch at the Fireplace picnic area and some stimulating conversation with a local Park volunteer.

 

Hell’s Canyon, Border of Oregon/Idaho.  We booked ourselves a Hell’s Canyon Adventure Tour, a combo white water rafting and jetboating trip on the Snake River.  My parents were under the impression the 7-hour tour started in nearby Lewiston.  Boy, were they surprised to learn we had to travel to the Hell’s Canyon Dam in Oregon, 7.5 hours away!  Thank goodness their volunteer gig entails 4 days off!  We left early the day before our scheduled adventure, stopping for lunch in Grangeville, another fine example of Americana with its classic burger joint, retro arcade, and drive-in theater in the middle of a hay field.  I got a chuckle out of the Dog Bark Park, a Roadside America attraction that is actually a bed and breakfast (before COVID anyway).  We hiked along Fish Creek Trailhead within Nez Perce National Forest, arriving at a picturesque ski cabin in the woods.  We chatted with some bicyclists about the majestic views of Buffalo Hump, the highest point within the Gospel Hump Wilderness Area of Nez Perce National Forest.  We passed through Riggins along the Salmon River and, boy, the place was bustling!  Hotels/motels were all booked, lots of folks were taking fishing charters and adventure tours, and restaurants and pubs were hopping.  We overnighted at the Frontier Motel in Cambridge.  It looked dated and rustic on the outside (like most places to stay in rural Idaho), but the room inside had been renovated recently, with repainted white walls and sparkling new bathroom sink, shower, and toilet.  The room had a small fridge, microwave, coffeepot, and be still my heart, free WI-FI and cable TV!  (Dworshak Dam’s remote location did not bode well for either over-the-air TV, satellite TV or internet access/cell phone signal.  It was a bit frustrating to be so out of touch, but then again, all of us volunteers were sheltered from the daily doom and gloom of the pandemic as well as political broadcasts.)  

Canola fields in Grangeville

Roadside America's Dog Bark Park, an adogable Bed and Breakfast

A rural drive-in movie near Grangeville

Hiking in Nez Perce National Forest

Ski cabin in the Nez Perce National Forest...

...which offers spectacular views of Buffalo Hump, still snow-covered in late June

The next morning, we were on the road again by 6—we still had 2 more hours of travel to reach our launch site.    Hell’s Canyon National Recreation Area (HCNRA), established in 1975, encompasses 650,000+ acres along the border of Eastern Oregon and Western Idaho.   HCNRA, much like Lake Havasu in Arizona, offers stunning scenery EXCEPT for the power lines for the hydroelectricity.   Idaho Power Company and Payette National Forest provide tons of campgrounds (several with hookups) for smaller RVing setups.  I was amazed at all the fish jumping around in the water.  They were so active, I think even Dad (who usually gets skunked) could have landed one!  We arrived at the launch site and met our guide and fellow adventurers.  Our tour consisted of 11 people and 1 stuffed rat split between 2 rafts.  Dad had some experience with white water rafting, having rafted down the Colorado River during young adulthood.   But unless you count going on Roaring Rapids Amusement Rides at 6 Flags Great Adventure and Darien Lake, Mom was a total novice.  She wore her helmet and held on for dear life.  The Snake River flows through Hell’s Canyon, which is the deepest gorge in the USA, beating out the Grand Canyon by ½ mile!  Floating downriver, we spotted an eagle and a mamma bear eating lunch with her two cubs.  We learned that the  scenes depicting the Grand Canyon from the movie “National Lampoon’s Vacation” were filmed instead at Hell’s Canyon!  We worked up an appetite rafting for 2+ hours, so we docked for the tour-provided lunch of grilled chicken/vegetable wraps.   After lunch, we hiked uphill, passing several petroglyphs along the way.  It was time to do a little reconnaissance of Granite Rapid, the next challenging Class 4 rapid we were to face.  The way you enter this rapid differs seasonally, based on water levels.    Our guide Jake was outstanding.  He was friendly, knowledgeable, and a strong rower, taking us through Granite and several other Class 3/Class 4-rated rapids without any of us getting ejected from the raft, an answer to Mom’s silent prayer!   The rafting portion of the trip came to an end about 3 pm.  We unloaded 18 miles downriver from Hell’s Canyon Dam at Sheep Creek Ranch, an early 20^th century homestead that you can reserve for overnight stays.  After touring the property and relaxing a bit, we all loaded onto a jetboat to return to the Visitor Center.  It was very cool to combine both means of river transport in one trip.   We all had a blast, and we were especially thankful for a warm, sunny day.  This Hell’s Canyon Adventure Tour along the Snake River was a 5-cheese experience for this Rambling RV Rat!  Well, it was after 5 p.m. when we returned to the truck, and we were fatigued from a long day, having arisen at 5 a.m.  More importantly, we were famished!   But there is virtually no where to get ANYTHING to eat in the immediate area, forget about finding something meeting Dad’s dietary requirements.  Luckily, Mom’s fingers worked some magic on her phone and she found a telephone listing for Li’s Chinese Restaurant in Council, Idaho, about an hour away.  US-95 takes us right by Council, so this would work out great.  We began salivating, especially since we have had the opportunity of eating Chinese food only twice since we left New Jersey in 2012.  The place itself is an old neighborhood dive bar, and the décor still fashions stools, juke box, and pool table from the prior establishment. Its eclectic assortment of tables and chairs looks like garage sale finds.    But don’t judge a book by its cover—it offers some of the freshest, tastiest Chinese food we have ever experienced!  Mom and I enjoyed a heaping helping of fried rice with huge and abundant slices of pork—no small pieces of meat that you need a microscope to find.  Dad’s vegetable lo main and the veggie platter we all shared included tender, delicious asparagus.  Li’s has excellent prices and its generous portions satisfied even our bulging bellies!   Li, the owner, is personable and accommodating.  He started this establishment 6 years ago. With his wife still in China, Li is a one-man show:  chef, server, dishwasher, business manager.  He lamented that COVID has severely impacted his business, and we empathized with his plight.  He represents just one of the millions of small business owners throughout the country who are suffering from Draconian shutdowns.  So, if you find yourself in the vicinity of Council, Idaho (perhaps on your way home from a Hell’s Canyon Adventure Tour), help Li out by treating yourself to some outstanding, authentic Chinese cuisine.

Hell's Canyon Dam

Can you see the three black spots in the center of this photo?  That's Mamma Bear and her two cubs

Watching the jetboat bring another group back to the launch site

Petroglyphs

Sheep Creek Ranch

Sheep Creek Ranch

Elk River/Grandad.  We departed Volunteer Village with Big Boomer on a rainy, chilly morning, with a destination of Elk Creek Falls Trail, 40+ miles away.  We were pounded with huge raindrops, which quickly turned to sleet as we gained elevation!  Of course, we still had 20+ miles to traverse along gravel roads used by Potlatch, a timber company who has operated here for many years.  We witnessed unique scenery, from wilderness areas of unadulterated beauty to livestock on the open range.  With the size of Big Boomer and the brass bull balls Dad has hanging off the rear of the truck, the cows all took notice of us.  I got some negative vibes from one of the bulls, though, who cut right in front of our truck and left a giant load of manure!   He sure told us off!  We reached a section of paved road.  Apparently when an area is fully logged, Potlatch then improves the road surface.  As we entered the Elk Creek Recreation District, we were back on primitive roads—muddy and mountainous to boot.   Gretchen, our GPS, indicated we were only 1.8 miles from the trailhead and picnic area.  Not a moment to soon if you asked me—it had been nearly 2 hours since we embarked on this journey.  Suddenly, Dad came to a dead stop.  And like Ralphie from Christmas Story, he exclaimed “Oh Fudge” (or something of that nature).  I looked up and saw a downed log in the road.  Not a whole log, mind you, 'cause someone in their infinite wisdom used a chainsaw to cut an opening right through the center of the downed log.  Unfortunately, because the obstacle was right on a curve, the hole was not wide enough for Big Boomer to negotiate without going into a ditch or sinking into mud.  Mom surveyed the area—there was no where to turn around or even to park, and the muddy, mountainous, winding road is only wide enough for one vehicle.  Backing up was our only option.  Backing downhill wasn’t bad, but Dad also had to back us UP the mountain!  I held my breath, Dad held his need to take a whiz, and mouthy Mom managed to zip her lip.  Kudos to Dad for exemplary driving skills and getting us out of this predicament!  Sadly, this meant no hiking the Elk Creek Falls Trail this time.  We all needed a reward, so we headed to the Elk River Lodge and General Store, home to everything huckleberry!  Orofino locals told us we had to taste the Lodge/General Store’s famous huckleberry shake.  Well, Strike 2—the shake machine "took a powder” according to the proprietor.   Mom and I consoled ourselves with a huckleberry ice cream cone, while Dad chewed on some huckleberry gummy bears.  The rain/sleet was getting heavier, so we opted to take Idaho 8 back to the campground.  Good thing, ‘cause soon there were white flakes on the ground.  These areas get an abundance of snow, as evidenced by an ATV with tank tracks over its tires!

They sure gave me the stink-eye!

A must have in snow-country!

A few weeks later, we made a second attempt to hike Elk Creek Falls Trail.  It was a pretty day with comfy temps in the mid- 70s, so this time we took Rat Patrol II, our Polaris RZR.  Of course, the aforementioned log was now completely removed from the road.  We traversed to all the viewing points of the falls: upper, middle, and lower.  These lands once were the hunting grounds for the Nez Perce tribe.  Later, settlers from the Appalachian Mountains called the area home.  In fact, you can still see the gate post to their old schoolhouse.  We went to the Log Inn for lunch, which had surprisingly very good food for a small café that services Elk River’s weekday population of 80 and the 800+ weekend warriors who converge on the town.   The Inn dates to the old logging days as depicted by the photos hanging prominently on the walls.  Logging is still very much alive here, and we traveled through active logging areas to get to Grandad, another very remote dry camping area operated by the Corps on the opposite side of the Reservoir from Volunteer Village.  At one time, the Corps tasked volunteers with servicing this camping facility.  They no longer require volunteers to do it.  I guess they realized it was not a good idea to send older folks on a 2+ hour each way drive along primitive logging roads for only an hour’s worth of work.  While out exploring on Rat Patrol II one day, we decided to follow signs for Elk Meadows, a series of OHV trails that take you to/through the Grandad Elk Mitigation Area.  Not only did we see a herd of elk, but we spotted an elusive moose!  Of course, Mom missed the window of opportunity to take decent photos and Dad had forgotten to turn the Go Pro on when we started this expedition!  (it is so hard for a journalist like me to find good technical help!)

Active lumber area

One of the hundreds of Potlatch trails

Sandpoint/Whitepine Scenic Byway (Route 6).  We left our tabby cat and our fishies for a couple of days heading up to Sandpoint. It was time for a final visit with friends Curtis/Stephanie, particularly since their plans for 2021 do not include Quartzsite, where we usually catch up with them.  We traveled on Whitepine Scenic Byway/Route 6, along the outskirts of Clearwater National Forest.  We stopped in historic Potlatch, a village built in 1906 by its namesake timber company to serve as a site for the world’s largest white pine lumber mill.  The original village included a hotel, school, and mercantile in addition to housing for its workers.  Interestingly, Potlatch Lumber Company named all its rail stations after Ivy League Schools; thus, we passed through Princeton and Harvard.  I found it fascinating that more than 80% of all lumber sold nationwide in Lowes and Home Depot comes from Idaho!   We stopped at Shingle Mill Blueberry Farm, from whom we purchased some quite tasty blueberries at the Moscow Farmer’s Market.  So, when Mom learned they have pick-your-own operations, she insisted we participate.  And participate we did!  We picked 23 pounds among 5 different blueberry types, at a cost of $75!  Now if you read my blogs from last summer, you know we did quite a bit of berry picking at various farms in New Jersey and Vermont.  And I stated then that DiMeo Farms in Hammonton, NJ had the BEST blueberries EVER!  I need to retract that statement!  Shingle Mill Farm now takes that honor!  We worked up quite an appetite, so we stopped at the Hoot Owl Café, known for its breakfast all day and down-home cooking.  The food was good as was the service.  I must say, however, that it was a bit more crowded than I would have liked, and if my parents didn’t contract COVID in this joint, they never will!  We checked into Hotel Ruby in Ponderay.  It is a small, boutique-type hotel next to the Wal-mart.  The room was small, but clean and reasonably priced at $139/night, plus only 3 miles from the Sandpoint Elks Club Golf Course.  The hotel has a pool and hot tub (neither of which we used), free breakfasts, and free Wi-FI and cable TV (once again, a treat for us).  Maid service is only upon request, so Mom is back to making our bed daily.  Oddly, Hotel Ruby put a $75 “incidental charge” on our credit card.   Mom, our family’s Chief Financial Officer, queried its requirement.  After all, the hotel has no gift shop, restaurant, or bar to which you can apply purchases to your room bill.  The hotel says it is in case we want to purchase the plush robes in our room’s closet.  Highly unlikely this Rambling RV Rat want a robe from a no-frills hotel—unless it comes with a basket of cheese products!   We met Stephanie/Curtis the next day for the guys 10 a.m. tee time.  The Sandpoint Elks Club Golf Course has only 9 holes, but the guys played 18.  This time I dumped the guys and opted instead to join Mom and Stephanie as they walked along the Sandpoint Bay Trail.  Our walk lead us to Cedar Bridge, a covered bridge converted to retail shops, where we savored a cool drink and enjoying the scenery.  We met back up with the guys, who shared their golf game “war” stories with us.  Then we all headed for an early dinner at Sweet Lou’s.  Good food, good times, good friends.  Who could ask for more! 

One of the only remnants of the Historic Potlatch Village

View from the Shingle Mill Blueberry Farm

We still have delicious blueberries in our freezer!

Views from Sandpoint Bay Trail

Gorgeous view from Cedar Bridge

                        

As you can see, we enjoyed an interesting, educational, fun-filled summer in an absolutely gorgeous state.  But what I loved most about North Central Idaho was the people.  Following in the footsteps of their pioneer ancestors, they have endurance and determination.   Many live in small, unincorporated areas with populations under 200.  They live a simpler life, unencumbered by the need for social media/internet/cell service.  Instead, they revel in all the wonders of nature surrounding them.   They have an unwavering love of Country, steadfast belief in a Creator, and an unconditional devotion to helping their neighbors.  If more people were like them, what a wonderful world it would be!