Now that Dad got a good medical report card, it’s time for some touring, and what better place to start than San Antonio!
After researching RV parks in and around the San Antonio area, we opted to stay at the San Antonio KOA right within the City. It was a bit pricey at $53/night, and it does not honor a Good Sam discount (it only offers discounts for KOA members and military). However, it is easily accessible from the Interstate, is big rig friendly, has level sites, and offers great amenities like pool, propane, even a pizza delivery service, should you wish to utilize them. Generally, we are not big fans of KOAs, only because they cater to families, and I try to avoid children at all costs (Hey, don’t judge me. You’d do the same if you were an adorable stuffed rat like me that kids just love to squeeze, pinch, and punch). But what sold us on staying here was the fact that the VIA bus line to take you into downtown San Antonio had a stop right outside the campground gate. So no need to disconnect, no worrying about navigating City streets and clearance levels, and no fretting to find adequately-sized parking downtown (all things we need to take into consideration because of the length of Big Boomer (our tow vehicle) and our overall height with Rat Patrol (our ATV) sitting on Big Boomer’s roof.
We exited the bus at Presa and Commerce Streets and headed to Riverwalk. The San Antonio River is the life blood of the City, and it runs right through downtown. The urban promenade, residing below street level, has a large assortment of restaurants, pubs, cafes, and even stages where you can stop and enjoy a variety of music, from Mariachi to Motown. Riverwalk is a tropical park setting, so add the wonders of nature--trees, gardens, and ponds--to the ambiance (not to mention all the waterfowl and birds, many of which would actually go up to folks dining alfresco and beg for food). The area is simply beautiful, but needless to say, it is very busy and congested on Saturdays and during peak eating times. (In the photos below, you can notice the difference in crowds between Saturday afternoon/early evening to early Sunday morning, before most tourists got into gear and many restaurants were still closed). You can navigate through this section of Riverwalk using the Rio water taxi, but we always prefer to explore by foot. (And hoof it we did! Over the course of our 3-night stay, we walked more than 25 miles throughout San Antonio!)
There is always a festival or celebration occurring in San Antonio. While their biggest annual event, Fiesta, was starting on the day we departed, we did get to sample TacoFest, a street fair in the historic La Villita district, one of the first neighborhoods within the city, now known for its cultural and artisan shops. The fest included traditional Spanish music and dancing as well as new Spanish musical artists.
Beautiful, brightly-colored tiles on the stairs, a testament to La Villita's artisans.
La Villita shops are set up in historical structures.
We headed over to Hemisfair Park, home of the 1968 World’s Fair and the Tower of the Americas. While there, we watched parents and photographers primping over young women in formal gowns and tiaras celebrating Quinceanera, the Spanish custom marking the transition from girlhood to womanhood.
We got back on the Riverwalk and headed towards the Convention Center, which is a less traversed, more secluded area to admire and enjoy.
We ended our evening with a 3-mile round trip stroll along the Salado Creek Greenway, which connected right to our campground and provided an opportunity to see some wildlife: turkeys, rabbits, cranes flying overhead, and assorted birds nesting in unusual places.
A female turkey
These crazy birds made their nests in the trestles of an overpass.
On Day 2, we hopped on the #24 bus and connected with the #40 bus, which takes you to the San Antonio Missions National Historic Park. Mom decided we should disembark at the furthest point, Mission San Francisco de la Espada and thereafter walk along the Mission Reach section of Riverwalk to get to Mission San Juan Capistrano, then Mission San Jose y San Miguel de Aguayo, and end with Mission Concepcion. This turned out to be a terrific idea! Most of the other tourists visited the Missions in the order of the bus stops. Hence, this early in the day we had fewer people to contend with. Additionally, Espada and San Juan, while still lovely, are small and the least majestic of the Missions, so starting our visits in reverse order saved the best for last! All of the Missions are currently active parishes with Franciscan priests, ministering to many of the descendants of the Coahuiltecans, those Indians who first inhabited the Missions.
I was saddened to learn the plight they faced so long ago. You see, between suffering from Apache invasions and succumbing to European diseases to which their bodies had no immunity, their only means of survival was pledging loyalty to an unknown King and worshiping a white-man’s God. They once roamed vast plains, and now they were confined to Mission walls. They were forced to abandon their spoken word and heritage to learn new languages (both Spanish AND Latin) and adopt new customs.
Each of the Missions runs independently and is autonomous in its parish rules. Hence, only Mission Concepcion allows photos to be taken inside the sanctuary. In fact, I got a bit perturbed by the rudeness, lack of respect, and inability of some people to follow protocol at the other Missions. Since it was a Sunday, all the Missions had services in progress through late morning/early afternoon. This hindered our ability to get inside Mission Espada. Fortunately, our timing was much better for the other three Missions.
Mission San Juan
Mission San Jose
Mission San Jose and its "Rose Window" in the center
Mission San Jose
Mission San Jose
All of the Missions have unique qualities and features, though Mission Concepcion has the distinction of being the oldest unrestored stone church in our Nation. Where Mass was said on December 8, 1755, on the Feast Day of the Immaculate Conception, so it is performed today, from the same sanctuary, within the original walls.
We thoroughly enjoyed touring the Missions, which together with the Alamo, are a World Heritage site. And even more exciting, I completed the Missions National Historical Park Junior Ranger Program, earning me yet another badge!
I highly recommend traversing the Riverwalk to access the Missions. It is a beautiful stretch brimming with nature.
We also visited San Fernando Cathedral, the oldest cathedral in the United States, which claims to house the remains of several of the Alamo heroes. There is no sign within the cathedral as to whether photos were prohibited. Being a “rules” person, Mom asked and learned that pictures could indeed be taken. It is quite a lovely church, with a huge pipe organ, intricately-carved statues, beautiful stained glass windows and ornate alter. There is a cool video art exhibit called “The Saga” that is projected on the cathedral facade. Unfortunately, the exhibit does not run on Monday evenings and we left the area on Tuesday by noon. Rats!
The Cathedral claims this tomb holds the remains of the several of the heroes from The Alamo battle.
We descended to the Riverwalk and hoofed it to the King William historic district. Named for Kaiser Wilhelm I of Prussia, the district is comprised of stately homes, many dating back to the mid-1800s when the area was settled by prominent German merchants. Here's photos of some of my favorite historic homes:
Grist mills were predominant along the River during this time period, and Pioneer Flour Mills, founded by Carl Hilmar Guenther in 1951, is still in existence today, with his descendants at the helm. Mr. Guenther’s original home now serves as a restaurant.
The Blue Star Arts Complex, located on the property of the Blue Star Ice and Storage Company, is the development of warehouse space into a trendy, artsy neighborhood of lofts, studios, galleries, and eateries, reminding me of New York City’s TriBeCa.
This City totally has it together! Its rich history, diverse heritages and customs, varied architecture, and artistic edge provide a culturally fascinating experience within an environmentally friendly and ecologically unique atmosphere. (Whew, it took me a while to come up with that closing summary! Guess it would have been easier to just say it gets my coveted 5-cheese rating!).
Happy 300th birthday, San Antonio! May you continue to flourish and prosper!
We would like to thank some amazing organizations for all they do for the RVing community:
Escapees RV Club