Visiting Michigan's Upper Penninsula (UP) - Part 1

 We left the Milwaukee area and had a short trip to Manitowoc, Wisconsin for a Harvest Hosts (HH) stay at the Balde Hobby Farm.  Their entry road is very narrow, and the field of 5 back-in sites for HH guests to park runs directly alongside the road.  Thankfully, we were the only HH guests that evening, so we had full access to the parking area.  Therefore, we were able to loop around the field and park parallel to the road.   We were fortunate, too, that it had not rained in the area recently, for we surely would have sunk our tires.  But, we thoroughly enjoyed taking a farm tour with Thomas, getting the lay of the land, and meeting all the animals.  The “farm store” had very little to purchase at all (a few natural toiletries and costume jewelry), nothing of real interest to us as full-time RVers (a recurring theme as we go to more and more HH).  Thankfully, we inquired and they confirmed they had some farm-fresh eggs, so Mom purchased several dozen and a $7 beeswax lip balm.

We went exploring in the Rambling RV Rat Pack Rubicon.   I was thrilled to see a gang of elk just chillin’ in a field!  Then we went walking on the Mariner’s Trail along Lake Michigan in nearby Two Rivers.  We marveled at the beautiful bronze sculpture, “Spirit of Two Rivers”, that pays homage to the area’s earliest inhabitants. 

 

Spirit of Two Rivers statue.

We love to support small, local businesses and shops.   Hence, we filled our bellies at Two Rivers Family Restaurant, a Mom & Pop eatery with good food, good service, and, my personal favorite, good prices.  Then we went downtown to Schroeder’s Department Store.  Started in 1891, it is the oldest family-owned department store nationwide.  It is now operated by 4^th generation Schroeder family members.  I loved how old-school this place is—it still does alterations and provides FREE gift-wrapping services!   Two Rivers is home to Ed Berner, the inventor of the ice cream sundae!  Unfortunately, the ice cream parlor bearing his name was closed that day.  But Bernice the Cow in Manitowoc convinced us to try some of her homemade Cedar Crest ice cream delights. Lip-smacking delicious!  I learned the Cedar Crest production plant is hiring employees for $17/hour.  If they throw in the signing bonus of all the free ice cream I can eat, I will start tomorrow!

Bernice is quite a persuasive sales representative!

 

We departed the next morning to cooler temperatures, which we love!  I felt like I was traveling the globe, as we passed signs for Belgium, Brussels, and Denmark.  In reality, we were only driving along I-43 and US-41 in Wisconsin, doing the Circle Tour of Lake Michigan.

We arrived at our next HH, Schwittay Farm, in Peshtigo, Wisconsin.  Now, this is my kind of place!  A 6^th-generation working farm, with hundreds of dairy cows, horses, chickens, and the requisite barn cats.  A foursome of handsome, friendly German Shepherds and their human family greeted us.  I was convinced I arrived in Rodentia Heaven, ‘cause this HH, as suppliers to BelGioioso (the parent company of Polly-O) sold all types of CHEEZ products as well as meats! From blocks of parmigiana and asiago, to mozzarella string cheese and Wisconsin's signature cheese curds, you can purchase it all right here!  And that we did, along with some delicious steaks!  The site is a huge, level back-in, so we were parked and set up quick and easy.  The site is right next to the dairy cow enclosure.  It is a busy farm, with milking operations ongoing all day, hay deliveries via tractors, and liquified cow poop being loaded onto tank trucks.  Truth be told, it didn’t smell like roses there.  This might be a turnoff for some, but not for me and my family of farm supporters.  We appreciate ALL aspects of farming/ranching.  We are happy to withstand the odor so farmers/ranchers can continue to bring produce/meat/poultry/dairy to my family’s table and my big belly!

 

Half of the canine welcoming committee.

That's us parked in the back--right across from the cow enclosure.

A sensational sunset view from Schwittay Farm.

A new moo cow!

Two of the dozen barn cats.  My rodentia friends sure were glad most of the felines were sleeping on the job and not out mouse hunting.

The next day we entered Menominee on the Upper Peninsula (UP) of Michigan.  Seemingly, Michigan is home to an inordinate number of cannabis dispensaries for recreational (+21 years old) and medicinal use.  Like we in Texas have stands to purchase fireworks on every single corner, Michigan has wacky weed stores.  Even the most remote areas have multiple dispensaries.  Well, I guess it is supply and demand economics at work.

 

We arrived at Chocolay River RV Park, a small, rustic camping area with extra-long pull-through sites (we didn’t need to unhitch Big Boomer/Suite Retreat and still fit the Jeep on site as well).  The other camping areas Dad researched didn’t pass the “3-A” test:  availability for our timeline, accessibility for a setup of our size, and affordability for the cheese bank.  (Some folks might use a 4^th qualifier:  amenities.  But other than laundry, we don’t use any of them.  Starlink provides our WiFi/internet, we use our own bathroom/shower, we don’t swim, nor do we have little ones for which a playground would be desirable.)  The Campground is within 1/2 mile of the Iron Ore Heritage Trail, which we would hike on occasion, even locating a geocache there.

Huge sites...

...and great views.

Nothing was going to interrupt this deer's dinner, not even me taking a photo.

Daisies grow wild here in the UP.  Knowing it is Mom's favorite flower, Dad and I picked a bouquet for her at the campground.

We found a geocache while hiking along the Iron Ore Heritage Trail.

We started our UP touring in Marquette, with a walk through Lakenenland Sculpture Park (we chose to hoof it, but you can drive through the main section of the Park).  The Park contains unique artwork created from scrap iron that Tom Lakenen collected from construction job sites at which he worked. 

 

This photo I took for my Aunt Laurie, who has an affinity for playing the slots!  Lucky 7s!

In downtown Marquette, we visited the Baraga Educational Center and Museum.  Bishop Baraga started as a missionary priest who would cross Lake Superior, whether by boat or by snowshoes, to minister to the Ojibwa Indians and the Great Lakes settlers. (We first learned of Bishop Baraga in 2022 while visiting the North Shore of Minnesota.  That’s where he planted a cross along the Minnesota shoreline of Lake Superior in 1846 in thanks to God for his safe passage during a horrific storm).    A linguist (he was fluent in 8 languages, including that of the Ojibwa), a minimalist (as full-time RVers, we understand that concept), and a devoted servant of God, thus far he has passed 4 of the 6 eligibility requirements for canonization to sainthood.  The Museum was his home from 1866 to his death in 1868.  We also stopped at Saint Peter’s Cathedral down the street from the Museum to visit Bishop Baraga’s tomb and took a stroll downtown to get a flavor for the area, which was once a busy shipping port for iron ore.

The Rosary Garden.

The Stations of the Cross.

Vestments worn by Bishop Baraga.

Inside St. Peter's Cathedral...

...is where the tomb of Bishop Baraga resides.

Where the Lakers would load iron ore at Marquette once upon a time.

In Michigan’s UP you hear, read, and see much about pasties.  After doing some investigative research, we envisioned a pasty to be like beef stew in a pastry shell, like a chicken pot pie.  We read reviews from the locals of the UP (known as Yoopers), and we decided Lawry’s in Marquette was the place to sample this signature dish.  Let me tell ya, this pasties shop is for patsies!  We were never asked if we were dining in or taking out.  Our pasties were pulled out of a warmer, plopped into a bag, and handed to us, without even an adios amigos.  We ordered a “classic” for Mom and me.  I wondered, “where’s the beef?”  All we saw as we cut it in half were potatoes, potatoes, potatoes!  Furthermore, it was very dry.  Then we realized we were never offered gravy or ketchup (which from our readings are the two popular dipping options.)    Dad’s vegetarian was slightly better than the “classic”.  Afterwards, we read the history of pasties.  Apparently, it was an easy pre-cooked meal that would stay warm for the local miners to eat at lunch.    In fairness, perhaps our perception of what they were was inaccurate.  Either way, Mom made us her own version of a pasty. 

 

Where's the beef in this "classic" beef pasty?

Mom prepping her version of a pasty.

Mom's version wins hands down, with big chunks of beef, onions, potatoes, and carrots within homemade dough.

The next day we began our tour of Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore with a visit to Munising.  We stopped at the Visitor Center to get maps and my Junior Ranger book to earn myself another badge (I am proud to say, mission accomplished!).  In the late 1860s, this area was home to the Schoolcraft Iron Company, a pig iron ore plant that employed half of the 1,000 people who resided in Munising at that time.  We walked up the multitude of stairs to see both the upper and lower falls.  We made a quick stop at the Munising Interpretive Center, whose structure once served as Munising’s first bank.  There was little to glean from this Center.  We watched a 13-minute video, shown from within the gift shop, about the Pictured Rocks cruise ships.  This was all a ploy to A) get you into the gift shop and B) promote a book about the cruises that is available for purchase within the gift shop.

 

Getting sworn in as a bona fide Junior Ranger of Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore.

Munising Falls.

One of many lighthouses in the UP.

We stopped at Sand Point to dip our feet into the cool waters of Lake Superior.

Sand Point.

Then we went over to Miner’s Beach, from which we hiked along the North Country National Scenic Trail (we have hiked portions of this is several states now).  The last ¾ mile of the trail to our destination was steep, muddy, and boggy. But we persevered, and we were rewarded with a great view of Miner’s Castle rock formation.

 

Miner's Beach.  Waterfalls of all sizes are found in the UP.

A view from a portion of our hike along the North Country National Scenic Trail.

Our hiking destination:  Miner's Castle Rock Formation.

On a cool, crisp morning we visited Laughing Whitefish Falls.  Stupendous!   It is an $11 charge/vehicle for an all-day passport to any of Michigan’s State Parks and recreation areas. In my humble opinion, this is the most spectacular waterfall within the UP, so it was money well spent.

 

There is so much more to do and see in the UP!  So I am off to continue my exploration!  Talk to you again, soon!