Enjoying Art and Architecture in Mason City, Iowa

We left Wanatee Park on a warm (but not oppressively hot) summer morning, traversing along several highways including US-218/IA-27, which has the moniker “Avenue of the Saints” since it connects St. Louis, Missouri and St. Paul, Minnesota.

 

Corn, corn, everywhere I looked.  I learned Iowa produces more corn than any other state.  Sadly, only 1% of all corn grown in Iowa is sweet corn for human consumption (the rest goes to feed animals and create ethanol).  Even more distressing, 90% of all corn grown in the U.S.A. is genetically modified.

 

We arrived at our next destination: Margaret MacNider Campground in Mason City, Iowa.  We were surprised by this City-operated Park.  It has super long full-hook-up sites that fit Big Boomer/Suite Retreat without unhitching. Additionally, it offers free Wi-Fi, firepits and picnic tables at each site, clean restrooms/showers (I didn’t use them, but I did a Rambling RV Rat inspection), and even a laundry facility located within the tornado shelter, all for the reasonable price of $32/night including sales tax.  We were given the option to park the Jeep on a nearby site or in the excess parking area, both within viewing distance.  Margaret MacNider Campground is within walking distance of East Park, which has lovely flower gardens, several children’s play areas, walking/biking trails, picnic shelters, a Cannonball Locomotive (currently undergoing restoration), 12 pickleball courts, and several other amenities.

The Canadian Geese Gang took over the B-ball court!

The trees were displaying early signs of fall color.

A dozen pickleball courts!

As we got ourselves settled into our site, Mom discovered a severed brake line.  This is the second one we have encountered during our 2025 summer travels.  Fortunately, it caused us no problems during our two-hour drive between campgrounds, and Dad had another spare to do a quick repair.

 

Afterwards, we hopped in my Rambling RV Rat Pack Rubicon and headed to the Grotto of the Redemption Shrine in West Bend, Iowa.  Catholic priest, Father Paul Matthias Dobberstein, created the shrine in thanks for his being healed of a serious illness.  His magnificent work commenced in 1912 when serving as Pastor of Saints Peter and Paul Church.  He continued enlarging and perfecting the shrine for the next 42 years.   His successor, Pastor Louis Greving, and church parishioner, Matt Szerensce, worked diligently to further his efforts.  The Grotto’s construction and subsequent maintenance have been possible through donations, so I was happy to dive into my cheese bank to support this wonderous project. The shrine’s craftsmanship is superb, made with all natural resources procured from around the world:  coral, seashells, semi-precious stones, and petrified wood.  Interestingly, Father Dobberstein even acquired stalagmite from the caverns at Carlsbad before the area became a National Park. Words don’t adequately express nor my photos sufficiently depict the magnitude of beauty, symbolism, or creative detailing within the nine areas of the Grotto. 

 

"Paradise Lost" illustrates Adam and Eve succumbing to Evil in the Garden of Eden.

Representation of The Serpent.

The Stations of the Cross.

A sculpture paying homage to Father Dobberstein, creator of the Grotto.

Though the Grotto is available to view 24/7/365, the gift shop, rock studio, and museum (which offers guided tours) were closed when we arrived.   However, we had an opportunity to enter Saints Peter and Paul Church (a wedding had just transpired there) to see the Christmas Grotto.  It was built in 1927 and constructed of precious stones too fragile to be used outdoors. 

Even the gift shop is adorned with unique rock/shell patterns.

We spent the next day in Downtown Mason City.  Though a small Midwest city (population 28,000), Downtown offers great walking, biking, and cultural activities.  We enjoyed viewing the Sculptures on Parade, in which the public votes for its favorite creation of all those submitted each year.  Then the City purchases the most popular art piece.

Just a few of the dozens of Sculptures on Parade.

This sculpture is called "Jam and Eggs."

The Man, The Architect:  Frank Lloyd Wright.

Then we went to visit Music Man Square.  Alas, this indoor replica of the river town depicted in its namesake film/play/book was closed on Sunday.   But we did have the chance to walk across the bridge featured in the film version of “The Music Man".

 

Meredith Wilson (The Music Man) Footbridge.

We also walked along the Rock Glen-Rock Crest historical district, admiring the fine homes in Queen Anne, Tudor, and other architectural styles.

Just two of the dozens of homes we viewed...

...during our walking tour through the Rock Glen-Rock Crest historical district.

But our main reason for this visit to Downtown was to tour two more Frank Lloyd Wright structures, both in the Prairie School style.  Interestingly, Wright did not refer to this style as Prairie School.  He called it “organic”, comparing it to a tree in the forest.  His philosophy was that only things that contribute to a room’s function should be included in the design.

 

We scheduled a tour at the Park Inn Hotel, designed by Frank Lloyd Wright in 1908 and built in 1910 for $160,000.   The building was to be multifunctional, with a portion operating as City National Bank, another portion as legal offices for the owners of the property, and the remainder as a hotel.  Wright achieved a wonderfully cohesive design with levels and horizontal lines while incorporating unique features for each building function (for example, the hotel had large, welcoming windows, while the bank exterior had bars to resemble a strongbox). 

By 1926, the hotel and bank were failing, and the lawyers who commissioned Wright sold the building.  Through time, the building fell into disrepair and almost found itself succumb to the wrecking ball like the other half-dozen hotels Wright designed through his career (including the Imperial Hotel in Japan). But the people of Mason City realized that they had a diamond in the rough, and in 2011, a $18.6 million restoration commenced. 

The skylight windows in the lobby are all original!

Wright's use of natural lighting is exhibited by small openings within the column.

As Kramer on Seinfeld would say, it's all about the levels!

Law office lobby with original mahogany wood door and paneling.

Law Office conference room.

Wright even designed the Sun National Bank's unique door sidelights. 

 

We stopped at the Corner Pizza and Ale House for a Margherita pizza (which was surprisingly tasty considering we were in Iowa).  Then we went to tour Wright’s Stockman House.  At a cost of $8,000, it is a revised version of Wright’s “$5,000 Fireproof House” that was featured in the April 1907 edition of Ladies Home Journal that Eleanor Stockman perused.  Furthermore, Eleanor and Dr. George, her husband, were friends with James Markley, one of the lawyers who owned the Park Hotel that Wright designed.

The Stockman home represented a middle-class Prairie School home.  It featured built-in bookcases, cantilevered roof, ribbon windows, and interior walls textured by sand being added to the paint.  The Stockmans did not purchase Wright’s furniture package, and the three grandchildren of the Stockmans sold most of the family furnishings after the death of their mother Ruth, the only child of George and Eleanor.  Sadly, no photos are permitted of the interior of the Stockman House.  Despite this tour being a bit disappointing, we had a fantastic time visiting Mason City.

What a bummer that we could only photograph the exterior of the Stockman House.

The next day we left Mason City and headed to our Harvest Host, Acres of Promise, located in Fredericksburg, Iowa.  This small rural homestead has a huge, level driveway and firm, manicured grass to provide easy maneuvering and parking.  It had fresh and delicious seasonal veggies, honey, and raspberries for purchase.  Best of all was the warmth and kindness that exuded from Mary, Tim, Lowell, and CC the kitten.  Mary greeted us with homemade energy bars and a smile that could light the darkest room.  The level of hospitality, generosity, and fellowship bestowed upon us transformed us from acquaintances to feeling like family.  We have visited many wonderful Harvest Hosts, but Acres of Promise is one of the few who have earned my coveted Rambling RV Rat 5-cheese award, times 2!   Staying at Acres of Promise was the perfect way to complete our tour of the State of Iowa.

 

    

Mom baked a cheesecake that we shared with this wonderful family.

Mary, Tim, and CC (short for Camping Cat).

 Time for me to sign off, but I'll talk to you again soon!

Harvest Hosts, Bridges of Madison County, and Cedar Rock = Great Fun in Iowa

 

 

We left Topeka, Kansas, driving predominantly along US-75 and US-36, the latter of which was miles of cornfields in all directions, as far as my eye could see.

You know there's tons of corn here--just look at the size of these silos!

We arrived at our next Harvest Host location, Holdfast Farm, located on IA-2 in Mt. Ayr, Iowa.  Kendra and Kevin, along with Diego, 1 of their 3 canine kids, are warm and welcoming folks. Their 50-acre property, which has trails on which we could walk, is serene and bucolic.  The circular drive provides easy entry/exit.  We loved their farmhouse store, which offered all locally-sourced products.  From eggs to produce, from flour to granola, from natural hygiene products to reusable tablecloths/napkins, we found it one of the best Harvest Hosts at which to make purchases.

Diego was keeping an eye on us.

Such a great farmhouse store!

The next day we drove along I-35, arriving late morning at our Harvest Host, the Living History Farm, in Urbandale, Iowa.  We had a huge, paved lot in which to park, overlooking the lovely grounds.  Our first order of business was to enjoy the buffet brunch at The Machine Shed, which is walking distance from the Living History Farm parking lot.  Then we took the tour at the Living History Farm ($20/adult), which included a tractor ride to 3 historic areas, a reproduction rural Midwest town, and costumed interpreters throughout.  The grounds of the Living History Farm were once the home of the Flynn family.  Their mansion, built in 1871, included running water/indoor bathrooms and gas lighting.  Situated on 600 acres initially, the Flynns made additional land acquisitions, bringing their acreage up to 1,000.  While touring the grounds, I learned that the State name "Iowa” pays homage to the Ioway Indian Tribe who call this area their ancestral home.  

Grounds of the Machine Shed included a pond and coops in which you can visit the chickens that provide some of the options on the brunch menu.

Our parking spot had a lovely view of the reproduction rural Midwest town.

1700s Farm.

The Flynn Family Mansion, circa 1871.

A sampling of the interior of the Flynn Family Mansion.

Early 20th century farm.

The kitchen within the early 20th century farmhouse.

This historic area included draft horses, chickens...

...and perky piglets who were pestering their Mamma during her nap.

Reproductions of structures used by the Ioway Indians when they inhabited these lands.

We completed our tour about 4:30 p.m., finding it well worth the admission price.  But, we weren’t done for the day.  Instead, we drove along the Covered Bridges Scenic Byway to Winterset, Iowa to tour the structures made famous by the book/film, “Bridges of Madison County.”  The original 19 covered bridges in Madison County, of which only 6 remain, were built in the latter decades of the 1800s to provide farmers with a way to bring their crops across the many rivers, creeks and streams.  The farmers maintained the bridges at their own expense to avoid paying a county poll tax, which was to be levied on all men over age 21 who wanted to vote.

The movie was filmed at Roseman Bridge, built in 1884 and renovated in 1992.  This bridge is said to be haunted, but I saw no spooks during my visit.

Cedar Bridge (built 1883) is the structure illustrated on the cover of the book. 

Inside the wood framework of Hogback Bridge is a journal book.  I made an entry for posterity.

Imes Bridge, built 1871.

Holliwell Bridge (built 1880), spans 110 feet.  It is the longest of the 19 structures built. 

The last structure we visited, Cutler-Donohue Bridge, is located within Winterset City Park.  This Park is a true treasure, complete with campground, pavilions, play areas for the kiddos, and wonderful wood carvings created by talented artists.

 

Cutler-Donohue Bridge, built 1870.

Winterset is also the home of the John Wayne Birthplace and Museum.  We arrived too late in the day to take a tour.  But Dad dropped off Mom and me to take a few photos.  The grounds also include "Freedom Rock."

Invoking The Duke from his film “The Cowboys”, the next morning I told Mom to “slap some bacon on a biscuit and let’s go” to our next destination, Wanatee Park in Linn County within Marion, Iowa.  Loop A within Wanatee Park offers huge full-hook-up sites with concrete pads, grills, and picnic tables, all for a reasonable advanced reservation rate of $36/night (including processing fee).  Loop B sites have electricity and water, but they are available only on a first-come-first-served basis ($25/night).  The Park has a fun play area for children, clean restrooms, and a carpet-like lawn bordered by native wildflowers.

Lots of fun to be had in this park for kiddies--and for Rambling RV Rat.

With crisp temperatures of 56F degrees, it was more representative of a fall day than one in late August, making it perfect for a bike ride.  So, after exploring both loops of the campground, off we went to the Park’s day-use area, about a mile from the campground.  Along the way, we spotted deer and bunnies within the meadows and several waterfowl enjoying the marshy areas and ponds.  The day-use area includes 2 inviting lodges that can be reserved as event centers.  I learned that the Park entry road was once part of the Lincoln Highway, and 1 of the Highway’s original bridges is still in use.  

 

One of the two lodges available to reserve for an event.

The "L" signifies that this day-use entry road bridge was part of the original Lincoln Highway.

While out and about in Marion, we did some impromptu apple picking at Allen’s Orchard.

Apple picking in Iowa was a real treat. We miss all the u-pick farms and orchards we visited when living in New Jersey.

But we came to this area specifically to visit Cedar Rock State Park in Quasqueton, Iowa to tour the Lowell Walter House.  Designed by Frank Lloyd Wright in 1945, construction of the 1800-square-foot Usonian-style home did not begin until 1948 due to the limited building supplies available after World War II.  Lowell was a local farm boy done good.  He purchased a company that produced bituminous oil, a component used as a seal coating on gravel roads.  He married Agnes, also a native of Iowa, and they lived in Des Moines.  An article that Agnes read in Vanity Fair Magazine was the catalyst for hiring Wright.   Cedar Rock, as the property would be called, became the Walters’ summer home for a cost of approximately $150,000.

 

Built on a limestone bluff overlooking the Wapsipinicon River, the home has a cement cantilever roof, Corning glass windows, radiant heat, and a customized boat house.  Almost every aspect of the home, including furnishings, is original (even all the plants in the home are ancestors of those placed there by Frank Lloyd Wright).  That is because the Walters had no children, so Lowell bequeathed the intact property to the State of Iowa upon his death.  The house provides a fine example of Wright’s quirkiness: He only approved the Walters’ incorporating their piano into the decor after the legs were shortened to keep his horizontal line design.  

Wright designed all aspects of this home, including the mushroom-shaped outdoor lights.

The dining area is comprised of interlocking tables...

...that also function as coffee tables in the living room.

Notice the height of the piano.  Wright insisted the legs must be shortened to keep with his horizontal line design.

Wright's design incorporated lots of natural lighting and plants to bring nature inside.

One of the three bedrooms.  Notice Wright's signature color of Cherokee Red in use.

As with all his homes, this kitchen is small.  But Wright stayed true to his design principle of function over form.

How is this for functional in 1945!  Wright incorporated the toilet, bathtub, and sink in one configuration in this bathroom.  

The multi-level boathouse...

...included living quarters...

...and an enclosed patio area with magnificent views of the River.

The story behind the name of the property...

...and the River upon which it overlooks.

Mom took a photo of her 3 fav guys!

Lovely gardens on the grounds of Cedar Rock State Park, which is located on Historic Route 20, the longest road in the U.S.A. (3,365 miles from Oregon to New England).

Despite the rain we encountered, we enjoyed our tour of Cedar Rock immensely.

Time for me to bid adieu.  Mom is going for her daily walk, and I want to join her.  But I’ll talk to you again soon.