We left New Mexico and I saw my favorite sign, "Welcome to Texas"!We arrived early afternoon at one of our usual boondocking spots for
overnighting, the Ghost Lights Viewing Center in Marfa.We received notification from our next
destination that their laundry facility is not operational.So, we detached my Rambling RV Rat Pack
Rubicon, did laundry in Marfa, and took a little walking tour to reacquaint
ourselves with the area that we visited extensively in 2020 while staying at
Big Bend Ranch Texas State Park Blissful Oblivion in Big Bend. We returned to a packed parking lot at the Viewing Center, odd for
mid-week, until we remembered it was Spring Break.Needless to say, we saw no ghost lights (our
record is now 3 for 7).
The turkey vultures love Marfa's water tower for its wonderful view.
Presidio County Courthouse in Marfa, built 1886.
The next morning, Mom and I went for a quick stroll around
the Marfa Ghost Lights Viewing Center grounds.I was
disheartened to learn that someone had dismantled my rock art to create their
own.How rude!Well, I gathered some new rocks and made a
smaller version of my self-portrait.
When we returned to our home-on-wheel, I experienced déjà vu!Dad had the truck hood open and was on the ground fixing a
problem.Fortunately, it was only a
broken clamp causing an antifreeze leak, not an expensive, inconvenient issue
like we had at this very parking lot in January 2024.Thank goodness Dad has the characteristics of
my packrat brethren.He carries all sorts of tools and spare parts
“just in case.”
We were onward and upward to Big Bend Station.Operated by Aramark as the National Park
Concessionaire, it is located approximately ½ hour from an entrance to Big
Bend National Park.We confirmed the
previous day that check-in was 1 p.m., and we arrived right on time—or so we
thought.Instead, we were told upon
arrival that Big Bend Station was short staffed that day.They were delaying check-in time to 4
p.m.WHAT!Mom reminded them that our reservations were for the RV
Park and not the lodge.This resulted in
them revising the delayed registration to “as soon as possible but not before
1:30” since they still had to check all the sites.Mom, our time management expert, suggested we
go next door to have lunch at Aramark’s small café.Good idea.Just as we finished our surprisingly tasty sandwiches, we received a call from
Aramark staff that our RV site was ready and we could return to the office for check-in.It was a pull through with full hook ups at a
rate of $49/night (including tax).
Mural at Big Bend Station.
The sunsets were beautiful...
...from Big Bend Station RV Park and Lodge.
Like many of you, we have visited numerous National
Parks.When asked which I liked best, I
could never name one, for they all are wonderful, with their own unique
features.But now Big Bend is the
National Park that I consider my absolute favorite! It is truly magnificent!As 1 of the largest National Parks (bigger
than the state of Rhode Island), it is also 1 of the most remote.In fact, Spaniards referred to the area as
“El Despoblado”, which translates to “The Uninhabited Land.”
Spending 8-10 hours daily at the Park, it is not an overstatement to
say that we explored this vast Park EXTENSIVELY, from Study Butte to Persimmon
Gap and everywhere in between. I marveled over the Park’s diverse topography, climate, ecosystems, and history.For example, its Chihuahuan desert land was once an inland sea.When the sea receded, it created swamps/marshes that became the homelands of dinosaurs.The vibrant green leaves of the cottonwoods in the fertile flood plains of the Rio Grande River are a stark contrast to the earth tones of the desert floor. Big Bend's Chisos Mountains are much cooler than/experience greater rainfall than the desert areas of Big Bend. Hence, these mountains have earned the moniker “sky islands”, and they are home to many species of trees.With Big Bend's variety of rock formations (hoodoos, spires, chimneys, buttes) and geological highlights (from sea fossils to dinosaur bones), I often thought I was in Utah rather than Texas!
Some unusual...
...rock forms.
Mule Ears formation (looks like Batman's ears to me) was a navigational aid for early travelers.
Views from the Nature Trail..
...at Dugout Wells.
The prickly pear cacti at Dugout Wells resemble my Rambling RV Rat self-portrait shape!
Hiking along the Lower Burro Mesa Pour Off Trail brings you to...
...the area where a waterfall (a.k.a. pour off) occurs for a short spell each year.
The moon was out yet when we arrived at the Santa Elena Canyon trailhead to witness a glorious sunrise.
You can see the bend in the Rio Grande River, for which the area derives its name "Big Bend".
Sunrise at Santa Elena Canyon.
The left wall of Santa Elena Canyon is in Mexico.
On our way to hike the Lost Mine Trail in the Chisos Mountains.
Views from...
...the Lost Mine Trail.
The majestic Chisos Mountains were created by earthquakes and volcanoes.
We watched the sunset from the Chisos Basin's Window View Trail.
We viewed the remains of various farms,
ranches, and mines, dipped our feet in the Hot Springs along the Rio Grande
River, viewed the fossilized remains of dinosaurs, and racked up quite a few
wildlife sightings.
The Dorgan House, circa 1930s...
...overlooks what once were the fertile farmlands of the Dorgan family's 600+ acre property.
Magdalena House...
...and other structures at Castolon Historic District.
Mariscal Mercury Mine along River Road East.
The Homer Wilson Ranch is nestled in the Chisos Mountain Valley.
Post Office/Store at Hot Springs, built 1927.
Livingston home at Hot Springs, circa 1920s.
Pictographs at Hot Springs.
Petroglyphs at Hot Springs.
Swallow nests built within the crevices of the rock walls at Hot Springs.
Yours truly soaking in some mineral therapy at Hot Springs.
Anyone want a taco? All you gotta do is cross the Rio Grande River and grab one from the proprietor of the take-out stand in Mexico.
Holy Havarti! That's one gigantic dinosaur femur!
Specimens within...
...the fossil exhibit. My Mom's a bit of a dinosaur--maybe I can donate her bones here someday!
Roadrunner and...
...Coyote both made an appearance.
Some interesting birds...
...watched us as we hiked the trails.
They look like pigs and smell like skunks. But javalinas are actually peccaries. This squadron numbered nearly a dozen, and its members were completely unfazed by the humans and this stuffed rat camping/hiking within Rio Grande Village.
Views from...
...the trails...
...at Rio Grande Village.
Me's thinks someone sneaks across the Rio Grande River to hawk some wares along the trail!
I learned at the Panther Junction Visitor Center that a
couple of Texans spearheaded the conservation and preservation efforts of this
unique area.While June 6, 1944, is
forever remembered as D-Day, it was also the date that Franklin Delano
Roosevelt was bestowed with the first set of land deeds for the establishment
of Big Bend National Park.
The Ranger at the Castolon Historic District indicated that the first 3 months of 2025 have been exceptionally
dry.Consequently, few of the cacti and bushes
were flowering.Ocotillo bushes were the
only exception.
Seeing this fully-flowering bush was a rarity during our visit!
This cactus had a few buds!
But the red blooms of the ocotillo were prolific throughout all of Big Bend National Park.
The hills are alive!
Funky-looking tree.
We spotted some sea fossils as we hiked a creek bed.
We also learned that planning your future visit to Big Bend
National Park is imperative.Effective
May 1, 2025, the current lodge at Chisos Basin will be demolished and replaced
with a new facility.This project is
estimated to be completed within 2 years.Sadly, during demolition and periodically during construction, Basin
Road and ALL facilities at Chisos Basin (including campground, Visitor Center,
restaurant, and trails) will be closed.Furthermore, Visitor Centers and facilities are subject to
periodic/seasonal closures.(During
our 5-day visit, Persimmon Gap Visitor Center was closed.The Country Store at Panther Junction was
closed for construction/renovation.Only
fuel was available.)Most
campgrounds within the National Park have limitations on size of camping units,
amenities available, and use of generators.
We added nearly 400 miles to the odometer of my Rambling RV
Rat Pack Rubicon, with nearly a quarter of them attributed to back-country
exploration on Maverick, River, Glenn Spring, and Black Gap Roads, the latter of which earned us an official Jeep Trail Badge of Honor.
Yours truly standing beneath our first official Jeep Trail Badge of Honor.
Come take a ride with us:
Buckle Up Buttercup! The Booby Bouncing Begins!
A visit to the Mariscal Mercury Mine...
...which operated from 1900 to 1943.
Crossing Glenn Spring. Look at that greenery!
What a beautiful place to be laid to rest for eternity.
Even in the backcountry, the ocotillo were abloom.
Our friends Robert/Sherry, who were frequent visitors to
Big Bend, presented us with a challenge: find the pictograph of the Red
Buffalo.We found little reference to it
during our internet search, and what we did find was more than 10 years old.But according to folklore, it is such a
historical artifact that no one will tell you specifically where it is
located—including our friends.Our only
clue was this solitary photo.
With the photo downloaded and no directional aids (my
parents are too cheap to buy a hand-held GPS), we began our quest one
morning.Through visual mapping with our
trusty binoculars, we thought we narrowed down the general vicinity.We hiked in gorgeous areas and found
interesting sea fossils and wildlife dens/burrows. However, after 4 hours of
hiking through washes and climbing hills, searching for footprints and scanning
the horizon, Mom finally convinced Dad that we were a tad bit off trail.(OK, anyone who knows my Mom and her NJ
attitude is aware that she was not this pleasant nor polite in how she relayed
this message to Dad).When we
returned home, Dad and I huddled together like Sherlock Holmes and Dr. Watson,
reviewing photos and doing further internet searches.We devised a new route and set out the
following morning to find the elusive Red Buffalo.
Eureka!Success!
After only a 2-hour search on Day 2, we located Red Buffalo.Now the question remains: is it a historical pictograph
from an earlier culture who called these lands home or is it just modern-day
graffiti?Quite frankly, this Rambling
RV Rat doesn’t care.We accomplished our
goal, completed our quest.In keeping
with tradition, we cannot divulge its specific location.You will need to figure that out for
yourself.
Unless I have a vivid imagination, it looks like a petroglyph of a warrior with an arrow to the right of the Red Buffalo pictograph.
Do you see it, too? Or am I only dreaming?
Everyone is smiling (even Mom!) now that we accomplished our mission of finding Red Buffalo.
Inquiring minds want to know: Do you think those markings on the right are petroglyphs?
Big Bend National Park offers a diverse adventure around every corner. I am so grateful we had the opportunity to visit this spectacular Park.
You are now looking at Big Bend National Park's Newly-Deputized Junior Ranger.
Sunset viewed from Panther Junction Visitor Center.
