Motorcycling in the Blue Ridge Mountains of North Carolina

(Note:  Those who know this Rambling RV Rat personally know I spend more of my time having fun rather than writing about it.  This results in my blogs ALWAYS being backlogged.  Hence, this blog represents Ashville and the surrounding areas pre-Hurricane Helene.  It is hard to fathom that the places we visited/roads upon which we traveled in early September in the Ashville area would become unrecognizable just a few weeks later.  Our hearts go out to those whose lives have been shattered by this disaster.)

 

We travelled along US-25 and I-26, passing Traveler’s Rest.  Once upon a time, this town was the first big stop along a wagon train road leading from Greenville, South Carolina to Ashville, North Carolina.  The roads, adorned with gorgeous wildflowers in full bloom, also offered majestic views of the Blue Ridge Mountains.

 

Not the best photo, but it gives you an idea of the spectacular array of wildflowers.

We arrived at Bear Creek RV Park in Ashville, North Carolina.  It is an older, decently-maintained park that offered us easy access and a humongous full-hook-up RV site.  It has a pool, laundry room, free WI-FI/cable, and, most importantly for us, panoramic views—all for $60/night.  We found it more appealing than staying at the KOA (which to me is an acronym for Kids, Overpriced, and Amenities We Will Not Use).

This area provides some great motorcycling adventures, with riders negotiating the hairpin turns and switchbacks of the mountain roads known as Devil’s Whip (12 miles along NC-80 with 160 curves and a 2,000-foot elevation change) and Diamondback (12 miles along NC-226A with 190 curves and a 2,100-foot elevation change).   We did these roads on a prior visit, but that was before Dad had his Road King Classic converted to a 3-wheeler.  While Mom can ride her own motorcycle, she chickens out on what she considers more stressful riding situations.  So, much to my dismay, she doubled up with Dad.  Hence, I lost my comfy seat, and I got relegated to sitting on top of the trike’s trunk!

We had a safe and enjoyable ride.  Afterwards, we visited Little Switzerland to devour a tasty vegan/vegetarian meal and to do our requisite shopping for shirts and other accessories touting the completion of these adventures.

 

While in Ashville, we met up with Robert/Sherry, two fellow DRV Mobile Suites owners.  Our first encounter with them was in 2020 along US-90, when we all waved to each other as they were leaving the Big Bend area and we were on our way in.  From there, we became Facebook friends and learned we shared many hobbies, interests, and principles.  So, it was wonderful to have the opportunity to meet them in person for the first time.  And what a great time we had, made even better by the fact we broke bread at 828 Family Pizza—on National Cheese Pizza Day to boot!

 

Speaking of get-togethers, we were so blessed for a visit with Nancy/Jerry, friends from our days of working with Amazon Camper Force in 2015/2016.  They were working at the Ashville East KOA (which sadly, has been obliterated by the floods/Hurricane Helene.  We thank God for answering our prayers: Nancy/Jerry and their fur babies were uninjured, their rig was damaged but salvageable/repairable, though they lost their golf cart, e-bikes, and other personal property.  The level of stress and emotional trauma they experienced is simply incomprehensible.)

Hard to believe these peaceful and serene waters...

...became the cause of so much death and destruction just a few weeks later.

 

On another day, we rode along the Blue Ridge Parkway.  (Shortly after our visit, much of the Parkway in North Carolina was damaged by Hurricane Helene/flooding as well.  Some of the sections will remain closed through Dec 2025!)  This 469-mile picturesque roadway connects Shenandoah and Great Smoky Mountains National Parks and contains 151 bridges and 26 tunnels.   Parkway construction started in the 1930s, a byproduct of bad economic times and massive unemployment.  I am amazed at all the wonderful projects completed by the Civilian Conservation Corps during The Great Depression from which subsequent generations have benefitted immensely.

Laurel Knob Overlook.

Curtis Valley Overlook.

 

Black Mountain Overlook.

Lane Pinnacle.

Tanbark Ridge.

We hiked a variety of trails along the Parkway, including Craggy Gardens and portions of the Mountain-to-Sea Trail.   It was so cool to watch the fog roll in at a 5,000+ elevation while the perky Black-Eyed Susan blooms swayed in the gentle breeze, stretching to soak up some of the rays of sunshine peeking through the clouds.  We also made the mandatory stop at the Visitor Center for me to get sworn in as a Junior Ranger, having completed my entire Ranger booklet.

Loved watching the Black-eyed Susans slow dance in the gentle breeze.

Craggy Gardens Shelter, built by the industrious CCC!

Along the Parkway, we visited the Folk Art Center, admiring exquisite works of art.  These talented artisans and craftsmen from the Southern Highlands offer unique and creative designs—from furniture to paintings, from sculptures to jewelry.  Good thing we no longer own a sticks/bricks—Mom (who isn’t a frivolous shopper) saw so many gorgeous things she would have bought in a heartbeat. Oh, the woes of a minimalist lifestyle.  We appeased ourselves by hiking some of the quiet trails surrounding the property.

 

Wow!  This rat has rambled on for way too long, so I’ll sign off now.  But I’ll talk to you again soon!

 

An Unplanned Visit to Charleston, South Carolina - Where the Civil War Began

Revisiting Charleston this year was not on our original itinerary.  However, we decided our Civil War battle tour would not be complete without a stop at Fort Sumter.  Fort Sumter has the distinction of being where the first shots of the Civil War were fired.

 

To facilitate our Charleston visit, we reserved a site at James Island County Park.  We had a 90-foot pull-through site that was nearly twice as wide as most RV sites, providing us plenty of privacy.  We enjoyed the hiking/biking trails and the natural setting.  Of course, all this came to us at the premium price of $82/night! 

 

Our site at James Island County Park was extra long and twice as wide as most RV park sites.

The hanging moss added character to the trees.

James Island County Park hosts a Drive-Thru Christmas Light Show.  I got a sneak peek! 

We drove into downtown Charleston, reacquainting ourselves with an area that we visited twice previously.  No matter how often I revisit somewhere, though, I always learn something new.   Here in Charleston, I discovered that the height of any building within the city cannot exceed the height of the tallest church steeple.  Therefore, you won’t see many modern towers in Charleston’s skyline.

 

We took a tour of the campus of The Citadel, one of 6 senior military colleges in the U.S.   Established in 1842, its cadets participated in several Civil War engagements.   Half of its current student body participates in the Cadet program, but the college offers non-military degrees as well.  Considering the Citadel did not admit women into its Cadet program until 1995, I was amazed at how many women are enrolled currently—you go, girls!

We were blessed to hear a pianist practice when we popped into the Chapel.

All the Chapel's beautiful stained glass windows were donated by various graduating classes.  This window was presented by the Class of 1890 over 130 years ago!

The Chapel Bell Tower and Memorial Gardens.

And now for my Rambling RV Rat simple synopsis of Fort Sumter as well as its role in the Civil War:

 

Construction of Fort Sumter began in 1829, following the War of 1812 between the United States and England.  Construction suffered several delays due to funding and a land title dispute.  Consequently, the interior was not fully complete and some armaments were not fully functional when South Carolina seceded from the United States after Abraham Lincoln won the election of November 1860.  Lincoln, a staunch abolitionist, announced plans to strengthen and resupply the fort, which irritated the Confederate State of South Carolina.  Hence, South Carolina demanded the Union evacuate Fort Sumter.  When U.S. Major Robert Anderson refused, the newly-formed Confederate army, under the direction of its first General, P.G.T. Beauregard, began bombarding the fort.  This continued for 34 hours until U.S. Major Anderson surrendered on April 14, 1861, taking the fort’s flag with him.

 

Our boat--and the water fowl--came in for a landing at Fort Sumter.

View of Charleston from the boat.

Per this model, Fort Sumter was a 5-sided structure.  It was built 55-feet above sea level.

Can you spot the projectile lodged in the left side of the brick wall? 

Slave labor was used to make the bricks and build the fort.  That center brick shows the fingerprints of an enslaved African who toiled here.

This cannon was excavated in 1959 but dates back to the 1860s.

Despite the Union’s efforts to regain the position, the Confederates maintained control of Fort Sumter until they abandoned it in February 1865.  After the Union won the Civil War, U.S. General Anderson returned to Fort Sumter to raise the flag he removed exactly 4 years earlier.  But this ceremonious incident received little fanfare.  You see, it occurred the same day as President Lincoln’s assassination.

 

As we traversed the Harbor via boat to and from the fort, the Park Rangers provided guests an informative and interesting narrative, which helped me immensely in earning another Junior Ranger badge.

 

As we left the Visitor/Interpretive Center, we walked along what was once Gadsden’s Wharf.  That’s where I learned some disturbing information that made me quite sad.  This wharf was the only one in Charleston authorized to engage in the trans-Atlantic slave trade between 1806 and 1808.  It is said some 30,000 captured Africans disembarked at this wharf at that time.  This was many more slaves than what were needed, causing the purchase prices of slaves to plummet (supply and demand economics applied even to slavery!)  Like any other of their “products”, the merchants put their slaves in warehouses or left them outside while they waited for prices to rise!  Subject to malnutrition, little clothing, and exposure to the elements, hundreds of slaves perished here. I said a little prayer, asking God to forgive our Country’s past transgressions and for the souls of those who died here.

 

We were preparing to depart the campground at 10:19 a.m. for an 11 a.m. check-out time, when what to my wonderous eyes did appear: a flat tire!  Somehow, we picked up a 2-inch brass nail!  Thank goodness Dad is one handy-dandy guy.  Rather than calling Coach-net, our roadside assistance provider, Dad pulled out the spare, changed the tire, and had us out of our site at 10:53 a.m.!  (I think he is practicing for Nascar’s pit row!)

 

We headed to our overnight Harvest Hosts, Bowers Farm, in Pomaria, South Carolina, where I enjoyed the sheep, chicken, geese, and horse who reside here.  The Farm sells meats, but the products we wanted to purchase were out of stock.  Anyway, at 95 degrees that day, my cheese was melting, and the humidity was making me feel like a sticky bun.  We were thankful Bowers Farm offers electric hookups, for which we gladly forked over the $20 fee.  (The Bowers family also owns a full-hook-up lakeside campground about 20 minutes away if you prefer being around people rather than farm animals). 

 

Dad wanted to play peek-a-boo with the chickens, but they wanted nothing to do with him.  How smart is it that the Bowers put this chicken coop on wheels, so it can be moved from location to location!   

On to Barefoot Acres in Fountain Inn, South Carolina, our Harvest Hosts for that evening.   Gretchen, our GPS, gave us directions for access via a right turn, which would have been tight, tight, tight—had Dad listened to her.  But Mom can attest that Dad is quite versed in ignoring what women tell him, so he came in from the other direction with no problems.   We were instructed by the welcoming hosts to park in a big, open field that gave us plenty of room to turn around when we exited. There is a covered picnic area for guests’ use nearby (though no table is provided.)  This location dubs itself as a farm and adventure park.  However, their zip line has been closed since 2023.   The hosts have been creating some hiking and mountain bike trails, which Mom was happy to explore. Mom also got excited when she saw their “certified roadside market” sign.  She had visions of restocking us with fresh-picked veggies.  But the market had scant produce for purchase, instead offering promotional items like hats, T-shirts, keychains, etc.  We made our purchases, then I went to meet the rabbits, donkeys, sheep, and young piglets who call Barefoot Acres their home.    We got parked and settled just before the rain hit, which unfortunately put a damper on the wedding that was taking place on the grounds.  Too bad the wedding wasn't the next day--we had glorious sunshine.

 

Well, it is time for my cheese break.  But I’ll talk to you again soon!