Boondocking in Parowan Petroglyphs and in Escalante National Monument, UT

We left Valley of Fire State Park in Overton, NV and arrived at Parowan Petroglyphs in Parowan, UT for boondocking overnight.  This is the second time we stayed at this dispersed camping site operated by the Bureau of Land Management (BLM), and it is a gem.  It is an easy on/off of I-15, is sparsely populated, has lots of hiking and off-roading trails, and contains tons of interesting petroglyphs believed to date back 12,000 years.  We had decent Verizon cell service where we parked, too.  This site also has an area that showcases dinosaur tracks, though many of the tracks are now unrecognizable due to vandalism and/or erosion.  We hiked 6 miles, took in all the sights, enjoyed the Spring blooms, watched a sunset, and even logged a geocache.  These are the simple pleasures of life for which I am so grateful to our Creator.

Sunset as you look through the "gap"

What a difference a day makes!  When we left Valley of Fire at 8 a.m. to go to Parowan Petroglyphs, it was 80F degrees.  Leaving Parowan Petroglyphs exactly 24 hours later, it registered 41F degrees!  As we traversed UT-20, I noted all the gorgeous scenery, so lush from the Spring snow melt.  As we were approaching Bear Valley, we passed a section of the Old Spanish Trail.  I would have enjoyed traversing a bit of this historic path, but Dad had nowhere to park Big Boomer and Suite Retreat.  We traveled along US-89 and entered Dixie National Forest, where we saw a sprinkling of hoodoos.  We visited Bryce Canyon National Park in the Spring of 2016 enroute to Alaska, so we just continued onto UT-12 to the town of Escalante, where we entered Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument.   We opted to boondock for the week at the BLM’s Hole in the Rock dispersed camping area.  This is a HUGE area with nice views, fairly flat/level sites, and scattered juniper and pinion pine trees to provide shade/privacy.  They have no water source nor dump station, but they do provide trash dumpsters.  Our Verizon cell signal was pretty good within the boondocking area, but more sporadic when we traversed further down Hole in the Rock Road.  One thing we noticed is that many off-roaders, back-country hikers, and groups park in the large area on the left side of the road as you come through the entrance of the dispersed camping area.  We were glad we didn’t park there as we initially intended, ‘cause we would have been surrounded by cars, hindering our ability to even move to another area.

After we unhooked Big Boomer and set-up of Suite Retreat was completed, Dad unloaded Maximus the trike and Rat Patrol II, our Polaris RZR side X side.  In anticipation of doing extensive off-roading, we purchased our UT non-resident off-road permit for $30 plus a $5 on-line surcharge.

 

Our first stop via Maximus was at the Interagency Office.  Though there are no fees to boondock at Hole in the Rock, BLM requests that folks register with them, so we happily obliged.   Then we picked up my Junior Ranger booklet, watched the film, and perused the Visitor Center as I diligently worked on earning my badge, which I was awarded later in the week.

 

Up next was a visit to the Hole in the Rock Heritage Center.  We watched a riveting film depicting the ordeals the Mormons faced as they traveled from Escalante to Bluff, UT to establish a settlement there.   To see what these folks accomplished, their dedication to their mission, their perseverance in the face of adversity—what an inspiration to us all!  But I know they had some help.  Divine Intervention can never be denied.  You see, the gap within the rock towering above the Colorado River was just wide enough to fit their wagons, no one died, and no one was seriously injured during their challenging trek.  The Center’s docent provided us insights as to how the Mormons specifically accomplished the task of getting down to the River through the rock.  As a descendent of one of the original families to settle in Escalante, she was quite knowledgeable on the subject.

 

We were all excited the next morning to take Rat Patrol II to the various points of interest along Hole in the Rock Road.  Our first stop was Devil’s Garden.  We meandered through some varied topography, enjoying the unusual rock formations and hoodoos.  The site has a picnic area where you can rest and contemplate, though you may be sharing it with a local lizard doing his exercise routine.

 

                                            

We continued on to the Upper Forks Trail, which leads to the various slot canyons.  The first 1.25 miles was a series of switchbacks that were easy to traverse as we admired the unadulterated beauty along the Rim.  Then it was time to connect with the Lower Forks Trail, which required hiking rock surfaces and sand on the downhill, which is more difficult for Mom's knees and her fear of falling from heights.  So to combat her apprehension, she got quite chummy with the rock ledges, holding onto them tightly like a prom queen to her date.   But Mom is a trooper and made it down to the trail for hiking the 3 slot canyons, Peek-a-boo, Spooky, and the Dry Fork Narrows.  Peek-a-boo was way too challenging right from the start, having to scale a 12-foot vertical rock wall.  Dad was able to hoist me up easily, but he had difficulty achieving the same results for himself.  Mom refused to try at all.  After we spoke to several folks who completed the Peek-a-boo Slot Canyon Hike and after watching others attempt the vertical wall, we voted unanimously to nix this “fun, challenging hike” described in the brochure.  Spooky Slot Canyon was much easier to maneuver from the back end, though we only did a small portion since people were coming through the connection from Peek-a-boo and the Canyon is barely wide enough for 1 person.  In fact, this is the first time we have visited a slot canyon that gives a “width test” back at the parking area before you start the trek.  If you cannot pass through the gap between 2 poles they have planted in the ground, you aren’t going to make it through Spooky Slot Canyon.  Though all three of us passed the girth test, we still had to suck it in several times during our short trek.  

 

I am happy to report that we did complete the entire hike through the final slot canyon, Dry Fork Narrows.  We were thrilled that it was so much easier and wider than the other two slot canyons.

The next day we jumped on Maximus and headed down Scenic Byway 12.  This is some terrific motorcycle riding, with plenty of twists, turns, and zigzags.  We stopped at each viewpoint to enjoy the gorgeous vistas.  As we climbed each summit, I thought for sure I was beyond the clouds and entering heaven.  Yet, no matter how high our elevation, there was still mountain peaks towering above us.

The plush tree grove is down by the Escalante River, where we hiked later in the day.

We drove through the outpost of Boulder, nearly as isolated and unpopulated now as it was when settled in 1890.  They did not get electricity until 1947.  Boulder holds the distinction of being the last Continental US mail route to use a mule train.   Until the Civilian Conservation Corps built a road between Boulder and Escalante in 1940, it would take 3 days to get to Escalante via wagon along the old mail route.  Today, you can hike this 15-mile route if you are so inclined.

 As we traveled along scenic Burr Trail Road, we were surrounded by the breathtaking red rocks of the Circle Cliffs. We stopped at Long Canyon.  At only 75-feet in length, this slot canyon was a bit anticlimactic for me after yesterday’s endeavors, but beautiful just the same.

View of the Circle Cliffs

View of the Circle Cliffs

Long Canyon

The road between the walls of the Circle Cliffs

We enjoyed a picnic lunch along the trail at Deer Creek.  As I sat on a log under one of the Cottonwoods that thrive there, I realized the spot must be a favorite hangout for grazing cows based on the amount of dung in the area.  Scientists say the wonderful rock formations of Escalante National Monument developed over millions of years through the forces of nature.  But I know the heavenly Father rightfully claims responsibility, for who created the wind, the rain, the soils of the Earth as tools for Mother Nature to design this unique canvas.

Next up was the Escalante River Natural Bridge hike, which was an easy 4 miles round trip.  Unbeknownst to us, we had to cross the river 8 times during the short trek.  Mom diligently took her boots and socks off for the first 3 crossings, then said 4gettaboutit.  Dad left his on the entire time and had to empty out puddles regularly because the water level was higher than anticipated.  (As a stuffed rat, I am not burdened with wearing footgear--how great is that!)  The riverfront trail was covered with hundreds of caterpillars who hatched recently.  Some were eating, some were clinging to rocks and twigs for survival, some had already passed to the great cocoon in the sky.  The caterpillars weren’t the only creatures we met along the trail—we were greeted by a bull snake, too.

 

The next morning we tackled the 6-mile round trip Lower Calf Creek Falls Trail.  We started at 9:45, so we enjoyed cooler temps and fewer folks on the trail.  We arrived at the falls to find only about a dozen adults, 2 dogs, and no kiddos, so we got some great photos.  I just loved watching the pooches romp in the water.  We stayed about 30 minutes, enjoying the crisp air and cooling waters.  On our return trip, the trail got super busy with adults, children, and canines starting their treks as the temps were reaching 85F degree.  I bet there were some interesting interactions when they all arrived at the refreshing falls at the same time.  Our brochure pointed out the locations along the trail of ancient granaries and pictographs (which I learned are images painted on the rocks versus petroglyphs that are carved/engraved on the rocks).    However, they were too far in the distance to get decent photos.  Though I did get a good pic of another bull snake we encountered.

 

Bull Snake

It was time to take in some additional sights on Hole in the Rock Road, so we set out early the next day for Dance Hall Rock.  This is where the Mormons shared fun and fellowship before undertaking the treacherous passing through the Hole in the Rock.  I can see why they enjoyed music and dance here at Dance Hall Rock--the acoustics are phenomenal!  They are so good that Dad heard what Mom said from 100 feet away when normally nothing registers from 1 foot away.  Someone needs to put the acoustics of this Rock into a hearing aid for Dad!  The views from Dance Hall Rock are spectacular—abundant beauty in every direction.   Easy for me to say, but I suspect the Mormons on this journey would look out to the horizon apprehensively, not knowing what stood in front of them on their trek.   The Hole in the Rock through which the Mormons passed through to cross the Colorado River is only 19 miles from Dance Hall Rock.  So, onward we drove.  Hole in the Rock Road was in decent shape—until the last 10 miles.  Once we entered Glen Canyon National Recreation Area, the road conditions were abominable.  And the winds had picked up dramatically.  Several times I thought we would just throw in the towel.  But, like the Mormons, we persevered.  Mom was particularly psyched to get to Hole in the Rock.  It has been on her bucket list for several years, especially after we visited Bluff, UT, where the Mormons established a settlement along the San Juan River, reaching their destination and completion of this mission.  Until we arrived at the Hole and visualized the treacherous conditions, we did not truly understand the magnitude of the Mormons’ amazing feat:   getting 83 wagons, 250 people including young children, and 1,000 head of livestock safely through the gap in the canyon’s sheer cliffs during January’s cold weather.  We should all exhibit the tenacity, perseverance, and faith of these Mormon pioneers.

 

Dance Hall Rock

Dance Hall Rock

View of Hole in the Rock

Hole in the Rock

We encountered few humans, but many cows/cattle along our route.

We attended a heartwarming Mother’s Day Church Service with the Mormons on Sunday.  Afterwards, we completed a walking tour of the town of Escalante to see some of the many 100+ year old structures.  We returned home as the winds became ferocious (60 mph) throughout the next 36 hours.  Sure glad the winds didn’t start until the end of our visit or hinder our ability to tour Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument.

 

I’ll talk to you again soon!

 

 

 

   

 

 

 

       

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Touring Valley of Fire State Park/Lake Mead Recreation Area/Las Vegas, NV

We had only a short 2-hour drive to our next destination, Valley of Fire State Park in Overton, NV.  But we left early in the morning to scout out an RV site in its Atlatl Campground.  You cannot make reservations, so the early bird catches the worm.  There were only 6 spots in which we could fit within the whole campground, and only 3 of those were available—one back-in (#25) and 2 pull-throughs (#42 and #43).  We opted for Site 43.  It had water and electric hookups, no obstructed views, and no adjoining neighbors on Site 42.  Sites come with a grill, sheltered picnic table, and fire pit.  There is an easy-to-access dump station right outside Atlatl Campground.  Wi-Fi is available at the hook-up sites for an extra fee, which we didn’t purchase.  We had enough sporadic Verizon cell service for our needs. We paid $35/night for our site as non-residents, which included the $10/day Park entrance/day use fee.  And we received a bonus:  getting to watch the fire beetles enjoy the Spring blooms.

After settling in, we walked to the petroglyphs that were on a rock wall not far from our campground. From Gypsum peoples, to Basketmakers, to Anazari-Pueblo, to Southern Paiutes, Indian tribes inhabited these lands 2,000-4,000 years ago, leaving behind petroglyph messages.   It is an amazing feeling to stand in the same spot that someone stood in prior millennia to share information with their neighbors.  While out, we hoofed it over to Atlas Campground to scope it out.  This campground could never accommodate us, but it offers private non-hookup sites tucked into alcoves and within the rock formations, reminiscent of City of Rocks State Park in Faywood, NM.  We stopped to view Arch Rock, which is miniscule in size and quite anticlimactic compared to formations found within Arches National Park in Moab, UT.  Returning to our campsite, Dad and I relaxed while Mom prepared dinner.  Little did she know we would have some unexpected guests.  As darkness fell, we marveled at a shooting star that glided across the night sky before extinguishing. 

 

Rocks within the Campground area.

Some petroglyphs seen on Atlatl Rock.  There are thousands of petroglyphs throughout the Park.  

 Arch Rock, a mini version compared to other Arches we have seen.

This fellow was a bit timid, peaking to see what was on our dinner table...

...but he became assertive, so I guess he liked what Mom was serving.

Another critter who wanted to join us for dinner.

We witnessed gorgeous sunrises from our backyard.

The next day we hopped on Maximus the trike and headed to the Visitor Center to view the film and obtain my Junior Ranger book.  Upon arrival, we found several big horn sheep putting on a show for Park guests.  We checked out Balanced Rock and snuck a peak at the private area reserved for outdoor weddings, which was quite lovely tucked into the rock formations.

This little guy was mugging for the cameras of Visitor Center guests.

Balanced Rock

This cactus outside the Visitor Center was in full bloom.

Then we drove over to White Domes.  What a terrific hike!  It is only a 1.25-mile loop, but it contains many interesting and distinctive features.  We admired the awesome multi-colored dunes as we trudged down through sand to the 1966 movie set of the film “The Professionals”.   It had to be 95F degrees down there that day!  But we continued our trek, arriving at a slot canyon that provided a welcomed coolness.  

 

After the hike, we visited the petrified log specimens that reside at the Park and the cabins built by the Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC) when the Park was first established in 1935.

The cabins built by the Civilian Conservation Corps.  Wouldn't it be a good idea to reinstate the CCC?

Then we completed the 1.25-mile loop around Elephant Rock, which offered terrific views of the rocks as well as several big horn sheep sightings.  I must say, though, that other than what passed as his trunk, this rock looks no more like an elephant than I do.

Does this look like an elephant to you?

The gravesite of John J. Clark, who presumably died from thirst near this spot in 1915.

Our itinerary the subsequent morning was to hike Fire Wave/7 Wonders.  It is only 2.3 miles, but the Park brochure described it as “moderately strenuous.”   Dad and I made a pact not to share that bit of info with Mom.  Instead, we suggested she take her walking sticks just for added stability, especially since she didn’t have them for hiking White Domes.  The first ¾ mile, representing the Fire Wave trail, wasn’t bad at all.  We were enthralled with the vibrant palette of the canyon walls.  The 7 Wonders trail began with an easy trek through a slot canyon.  But then it entailed some upward rock scrambling.  This is when Mom freaked out a bit, claiming Dad was trying to knock her off.   It was touch and go for a minute, but the old bag pulled through, foiling any of Dad’s perceived plans.

Mom relieved she made it up the rock wall.

Then we went to Rainbow Vista, a sandy 1-mile round trip hike classified as “easy”.   Somehow we passed up the actual vista point, and kept on hiking down the trail.  Eventually, we came to Fire Canyon Lookout, an unintended destination with a great view.  We did one final hike that day to Mouse Tank.  With a name like that, I just had to visit.  Here’s the story:  a Southern Paiute Indian by the name of Mouse was a wanted man, accused of killing 2 prospectors.  He evaded the law for quite some time by hiding in these canyons near a natural water collection tank.  But he blew his own cover when he left his lair and moseyed into town.

A photo of Rainbow Vista that we took on the return hike.

The view from Fire Canyon Lookout.

One of the many nooks and crannies near Mouse's Tank.

Take a short trike ride with us on Maximus through Valley of Fire State Park:

We returned to our campsite to find we had a neighbor now in pull-through site 42—an electric hybrid vehicle.    She stayed on the site for the next 3 nights.  Wonder if this will be the future situation for hook-up sites in campgrounds?  We already compete with tents and small units taking up the only sites that can accommodate large set-ups.  Looks like we will have EVs entering the equation as well.  I understand that everyone pays the same fee for sites regardless of type of unit and size.  But to me it is common courtesy to take what you need, not what you want, especially when there are other vacant hookup sites in which an EV/tent/small unit could fit easily.

We spent a day running errands and doing laundry in Overton.  While there, we checked out the Bureau of Land Management (BLM) dispersed camping area for future use.  The entry road was a bit rough, but doable.  The area is not particularly scenic since it overlooks power lines.  On the plus side, we had a decent Verizon cell signal for phone/internet. Later in the evening, we hiked over to the beehive formations.  Valley of Fire State Park has such varied rock shapes.     

 

We headed into Las Vegas the next afternoon, getting to Freemont Street in time for dinner.  We chowed down a tasty plant-based cheese and mushroom pizza at Evel Pizza, then started to walk in Downtown Vegas.  We came specifically to see the band 80s Station perform.  We enjoyed their performance in Rapid City, SD back in 2018, and have followed them on Facebook to see if our paths would cross again. While my parents danced and reminisced the night away, I took in the sights.   Freemont Street is like a 3-ring circus.  Performers are EVERYWHERE executing a diverse array of feats: from turning palms into floral arrangements, to impersonating Michael Jackson dancing, from contorting bodies into crazy positions, to scantily-clad women with painted body parts offering to take photos of visitors.  Freemont Street is like Greenwich Village in New York City meets Mardi Gras in New Orleans.  It is SOOOO weird that NOBODY, I say NOT A SOUL, thought it strange to see yours truly, a stuffed rat in Harley Davidson boxer shorts and a dress shirt, walking down the street.  ‘Nuf said.

 

Beef, Booze, and Broads--this sounds like a fun place to visit.

80s Station, a great retro band.

We spent the next day visiting Lake Mead National Recreation Area.  When we arrived, we learned the Overton Beach Marina has been closed since 2007 due to low water levels.    In fact, Lake Mead is now so low, a human body within a barrel was found recently that is believed to date back to the 1970s.   Additionally, the remains of buildings in St. Thomas Cove, an old Mormon settlement that was flooded in 1938 when Lake Mead was formed, have re-emerged due to dwindling water levels.  We started to drive down the 3-mile dirt road to the settlement site, but it was so washboard, we made it only a mile before turning around.  We parked Big Boomer, our medium duty truck, unloaded the e-bikes, and pedaled to the site instead.  Then we hiked along the 2.5-mile loop trail that took us through the ghost town.  The Mormons arrived at St. Thomas Cove in 1865, finding the lands at the confluence of the Muddy and Virgin Rivers to be fertile for farming.  They learned 5 years later that they were living in Nevada rather than the Utah/Arizona territories and that they owed 5 years of back taxes.  Rather than pay, the inhabitants burned their homes, abandoned their crops and moved to Salt Lake City.  St. Thomas Cove was re-established in the 1880s with an influx of new settlers and peaked with a population of 500.  The foundations of many of their homes and buildings can be seen today.  As we peddled back to the parking area, the winds picked up significantly.  We were glad we took Big Boomer instead of Maximus the trike out for this excursion.

 

We pedaled along the 3 mile washboard road to reach the hiking trail.

Remains of the St. Thomas Cove Post Office

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Remains of the school building in St. Thomas Cove.

We arose early the next morning to break down camp.  While dumping and pumping, the big horn sheep came over to say goodbye.  Then they began to climb the nearby rocks, showcasing their feats of strength.  I can think of no better finale for our visit to Valley of Fire State Park.

We are now off to Utah.  Talk to you again soon!